Do Tula primers actually suck this bad?

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by Charlie-AKA, Dec 9, 2012.

  1. Charlie-AKA

    Charlie-AKA Registered Member

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    I'm trying to find out if I got a bad batch of Tula primers or if the springs on my guns are too light to reliably detonate hard primers. No exaggeration, about 20-30% of all the rounds I load using Tula small pistol primers do not detonate (light primer strike). I've shooting them through 2 Glock .40s and a CZ-75 .40. I know Tula primers are supposed to be pretty hard but this is ridiculous. This is something that's been going on for months now. I usually don't use them but a friend of mine has a few thousand and I buy some off him sometimes, so these are coming out of the same box of 1000.
    Has anyone else had this much trouble with Tula primers? I've never had this problem with Federal or CCI.
     
  2. noylj

    noylj Registered Member

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    Sounds like they are as hard or thick as small rifle primers, which also will not fire unless struck HARD.
    I have a whole bunch, but haven't tried them yet.
     
  3. dukeguy

    dukeguy Club Subscribed

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    I'm almost through my 2nd thousand with pretty good luck. I get an occasional light strike - maybe 1 in a batch of 100 - which for range practice is not a big deal to me in light of the savings. And I have very light springs in my gun.
     
  4. lxk308

    lxk308 Registered Member

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    I've also had good luck with my Tula primers. For me, they work as well as the other primers. I'm shooting a GP100 revolver, XDM, and a CZ 75 Phantom.
     
  5. toddje

    toddje Staff

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    I had some Tula primers once. Thru my glock they ran about 2-3% that wouldn't fire. That's with stock springs. No more Tula primers for me.
     
  6. res45

    res45 New Member

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    My Ruger/Taurus revolvers and PA-63 in 9 x 18 Mak. and Hi Point C9 all eat the Wolf/Tula SP same primer different package with no issues.
     
  7. Silver_Bullet

    Silver_Bullet Staff Staff Member

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    I have had tula factory ammo with hard primers. Notice the strikes look deep enough, but they did not go off. My kahr pm9 eats everything else without a hic-up.
    [​IMG]
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  8. bdejong11129

    bdejong11129 Member

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    Its very gun dependant. I have used them and will continue to use them since they are so cheap. My sons G34 has a tendancy to light strike due to the lighter trigger we had installed. However, all my revolvers work great as do the 1911's.

    What I have seen with striker fired guns is that they can be sensitive to primer depth. If the primer is even a little high in the pocket then tend to just seat them when struck and while it wil dimple the primer a lot of the force is spent on seating the primer and not detonating it. Take a close look at you primer depth of the ones that did not go off.

    Also, will they fire on the second strike or are they just dead?

    Brian
     
  9. NeuseRvrRat

    NeuseRvrRat New Member

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    ^i concur with brian

    primers are held in place via an interference or "press" fit. tula primers are harder than most other brands. therefore, you've gotta push a little harder than normal to get them fully seated, which means getting a pre-load on the anvil. if they aren't fully seated, the firing pin will just push the primer further into the pocket. if you're priming with a hand-priming tool, you may need to go to on-press priming to get enough leverage to seat them fully. if that doesn't work, then it's your gun.

    and never try to seat a primer further after the case has been charged.
     
  10. Charlie-AKA

    Charlie-AKA Registered Member

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    What happens is usually when I try to fire the round again it will go off. Sometimes it takes a third and even a fourth try. Sometimes they don't go off at all. Out of the couple thousand Tula's I've loaded I have maybe 20 rounds that would not go off at all. But most of those are from the box I've been working on for the last few months now. I'd loaded Tula primers before with a lot less light strikes, like last winter I went through a whole box and don't remember having much problems.
    I know about the primer seating depth factor and I'm pretty careful to seat them fully. It's possible I was slack about that though.
    Oddly enough, my 1911 must have extra strong springs because I hardly ever have light strikes when I'm shooting it, even with Tula primers.
     
  11. bdejong11129

    bdejong11129 Member

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    It wouldn't be that your 1911 would have a stiff or hard spring, it would be a loose or weak spring since the spring is acting to hold it back....;)

    My 1911 guns pop every kind of primer as do the revolvers. Its usually the striker guns that have issues with high primers. But then again, its super cheap primers so there could very well be lots of quality issues. That is why I use em for my practice and plinking ammo and never my match ammo.

    Disclaimer-this is my opinion and yours may vary.
     
  12. Charlie-AKA

    Charlie-AKA Registered Member

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    The difference in price between Tula primers and CCI or Federal is so negligible in my opinion that it's not worth it to keep messing with them.

    I shot a batch of someone else's .45 reloads through my 1911 a few weeks ago and there were a few light strikes due to noticeably "proud" primers, so I know that the 1911 (I have a colt gold cup trophy) can have light primer strikes but just less frequently.
     
  13. lxk308

    lxk308 Registered Member

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    At the recent Raleigh Dixie gun show, Georgia Arms had Tula primers for $20 per 1k and Winchester primers for $30 per 1k. That is only a difference of .01 per primer. I bought 5k of the Tula primers.
     
  14. Habfan

    Habfan Registered Member

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    I've shot a few hundred Tula LPP without a hitch. I've been using them for .45 loads for my 1911. I picked up more from Georgia Arms at the last Raleigh gun show and I just acquired a few thousand SPP from Powder Valley to try.
     

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