Help with riding lawnmower

cranbiz · Jul 22, 2015

What Gtown said. But still make sure the new ignition switch is passing 12v to the orange wire.

Somewhere along the way, your orange wire grows a white stripe and ends up at the solenoid.

DirtySCREW · Jul 22, 2015

All wires check continuity. Rechecked blade safety switch..checks out ok.

Beyond frustrated.

DS

Gtownwrench · Jul 22, 2015

a

DirtySCREW said:
All wires check continuity. Rechecked blade safety switch..checks out ok.

Beyond frustrated.

DS

are you getting 12 volts to the ignition switch?

DirtySCREW · Jul 23, 2015

gtownwrench said:
a

are you getting 12 volts to the ignition switch?

Not at the "S" on the ignition switch....I believe the "B" (I'm guessing battery) did have 12v

DS

lucky13bullets · Jul 23, 2015

take every connector apart that you can see, and spray it with a product called deoxit

Gtownwrench · Jul 23, 2015

DirtySCREW said:
Not at the "S" on the ignition switch....I believe the "B" (I'm guessing battery) did have 12v

DS

's" should have battery voltage when turning the key to start, if not, something screwy with the switch

cranbiz · Jul 23, 2015

If you can, pull the orange wire from the ignition switch but leave the others on it. Then test the voltage to the S terminal (I'm assuming here that your orange wire goes to the "s" terminal.

If you have voltage on the terminal without the orange wire connected when the switch is engaged, the switch is fine and your orange wire is shorted against the frame somewhere. If not, the switch is screwed up.

Mikew · Jul 23, 2015

Look at both switches there are letters stamped into the spade terminals (or on the plastic beside them) they HAVE to be the same there are at least 5 different configurations.

DirtySCREW · Jul 24, 2015

cranbiz said:
If you can, pull the orange wire from the ignition switch but leave the others on it. Then test the voltage to the S terminal (I'm assuming here that your orange wire goes to the "s" terminal.

If you have voltage on the terminal without the orange wire connected when the switch is engaged, the switch is fine and your orange wire is shorted against the frame somewhere. If not, the switch is screwed up.

How to test a lawn mower solenoid:

I did this. ..for both new and old ignition switches...BOTH ARE GOOD.

I did what you said...had to alter my "wire harness" a tad...but made a new wire for the solenoid.

I'm only getting .09-.10 volts on the new solenoid wire.

This thing is about to be target practice!!

What now?

DS

DirtySCREW · Jul 24, 2015

The new solenoid wire goes directly from the switch to the solenoid spade terminal.

DS

cranbiz · Jul 24, 2015

Do you have 12v on the ignition switch solenoid output?

You did say that the engine turned over and ran when you jumped the solenoid directly and the ignition switch was in the on position? If so, what I might be inclined to do at this point is go to Radio Shack and buy a heavy duty momentary toggle switch. Install that switch and wire from the battery to the switch and from the switch to the solenoid. Then when you want to start the mower, turn the ignition switch to the run position and hit the toggle switch.

Gtownwrench · Jul 24, 2015

DirtySCREW said:
How to test a lawn mower solenoid:

I did this. ..for both new and old ignition switches...BOTH ARE GOOD.

I did what you said...had to alter my "wire harness" a tad...but made a new wire for the solenoid.

I'm only getting .09-.10 volts on the new solenoid wire.

This thing is about to be target practice!!

What now?

DS

this video is for a solenoid test, yet you say "switch". Just to make sure every one is on the right page, give us some pics of what you are working with

DirtySCREW · Jul 24, 2015

Good catch Gtown. ..I just hit the wrong link.

Here is the correct one

How to test lawn mower key switch:

And I do have 12v at the S terminal.

Why wouldn't it come down a new wire and engage the solenoid? ? At first I had the Old solenoid on and heard it "click" the first time I attempted to start the mower with the new wire. Then nothing after that. I changed to the new solenoid and nothing with it either.

DS

Gtownwrench · Jul 24, 2015

DirtySCREW said:
At first I had the Old solenoid on and heard it "click" the first time I attempted to start the mower with the new wire. Then nothing after that. I changed to the new solenoid and nothing with it either.

DS

DS

popped a fuse maybe?

3 or 4 terminal solenoid?

DirtySCREW · Jul 24, 2015

Fuse is 20A and still good.

Old solenoid is 3

New is 4...but I am using the grounding wire that came with it per it's instructions.

I say I am getting 12v at the S terminal. .it was actually 10.8 something. .still enough I believe

Battery is still 12.47 v

DS

DirtySCREW · Jul 24, 2015

Let me ask this....

Can safety switches check ok for continuity. .but actually be BAD? ???

DS

Gtownwrench · Jul 24, 2015

DirtySCREW said:
Let me ask this....

Can safety switches check ok for continuity. .but actually be BAD? ???

DS

yes. One way to find out is to use ohms resistance. Looking for how much "power" it takes to move thru the connection. Set the meter to ohms, but without the tone.

could be the reason why you are showing a "voltage drop' at one of your test earlier

DirtySCREW · Jul 26, 2015

cranbiz said:
Do you have 12v on the ignition switch solenoid output?

You did say that the engine turned over and ran when you jumped the solenoid directly and the ignition switch was in the on position? If so, what I might be inclined to do at this point is go to Radio Shack and buy a heavy duty momentary toggle switch. Install that switch and wire from the battery to the switch and from the switch to the solenoid. Then when you want to start the mower, turn the ignition switch to the run position and hit the toggle switch.

Did this and it's working again!!
Thanks a million guys!!!

DS

cranbiz · Jul 26, 2015

Your welcome. That will be one brick of 22 split between Gtown and me.
[emoji1]

Help with riding lawnmower

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