Carolina Shooters Forum banner
  • Please post in our Community Feedback thread for help with the new forum software! If you are having trouble logging in, please Contact Us for assistance.

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,540 Posts
You are going to have to try various kinds of ammo to find what your .22 likes. I would suggest starting with Wolf MT, CCI standard velocity, and Aguilla rifle match just to name a few of the not-so-expensive target ammo that tends to be pretty consistant and accurate out of most people's guns. You will most likely find that 40gr, round nose, standard velocity (approx 1050fps) will tend to be the most accurate.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
8,069 Posts
Best I have found in 15 rifles is Fed auto match.

The stuff yo get at Wal-Mart in the tan colored box. Shoots out of my CZ 452 to 400yds great, and every MP-15-22 to 300yds fine. also out of stock 10/22's to 300yds fine.

Get it and try it. Just keep in mind do not clean the barrel of a 22lr. You will hurt the accuracy and precision of the rifle!!

John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,031 Posts
if you want to shoot 100, you need standard velocity to avoid the transsonic barrier. for really cheap you have CCI SV. For pretty cheap you have Wolf Match Extra and Eley yellow box....for GOOD stuff you have Midas, EPS, Red box and black box....
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,753 Posts
I'm excited when Im reliably hitting out to 100 yrs with my .22's...

Wow, 300-400 yds ...

Whats the bullet drop, like 10 feet?.... not to mention a 5-10 mph breeze and you could drift 5 ft as well...

Never even tried that distance, but it sounds like fun! ... Like firing a mortar :)
 

·
Dog Defender
Joined
·
2,974 Posts
Best I have found in 15 rifles is Fed auto match.

The stuff yo get at Wal-Mart in the tan colored box. Shoots out of my CZ 452 to 400yds great, and every MP-15-22 to 300yds fine. also out of stock 10/22's to 300yds fine.

Get it and try it. Just keep in mind do not clean the barrel of a 22lr. You will hurt the accuracy and precision of the rifle!!

John
Huh?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,031 Posts
you clean your barrel, you loose your accuracy till the barrel is dirty again....it's a combination of hte lead and lube...

if you change bullets that have a different lube, you loose accuracy AGAIN until it's dirtied up with the same lube

you clean the action and trigger...but NEVER the barrel until it just flat out won't shoot
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
8,069 Posts
Bullet drop at 200yds is 19MOA

Bullet drop at 300yds is 21 more MOA

Bullet drop to 400yds is 35 more MOA

All from a 100yd ZERO

The Fed auto match goes transonic at about 180-190yds or so. Then you must figure out your bullet drop for sub-sonic at distance. Windage factor is a x2.5 from sonic divided distance /100 on avg.

and yes do not clean your barrel, only the chamber of rim-fire and centerfire rifles.

John
 

·
Dog Defender
Joined
·
2,974 Posts
Wait, why have I never heard this before? Don't clean it ever? Not even a quick bore-snake?

John, you keep spoiling my OCD gun cleaning fun. First you tell me not to detail strip my K9 every range trip, now I can't clean my 10/22 barrel? What the heck am I supposed to do after the range? Relax like normal people? Thanks a lot fella...
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
8,069 Posts
Wait, why have I never heard this before? Don't clean it ever? Not even a quick bore-snake?

John, you keep spoiling my OCD gun cleaning fun. First you tell me not to detail strip my K9 every range trip, now I can't clean my 10/22 barrel? What the heck am I supposed to do after the range? Relax like normal people? Thanks a lot fella...
So true.

Check it my friend.

What GSRswapandslow wrote above is 1000% true. This is where sports shooting like rimfire benchrest, and others like F-Class, and so on come in to help us non-sports shooters understand the art of the rifle.

The barrel of all firearms is only so big ok, the room in that barrel is consumed with lans and groves. The extra room is where the bullet travels down. to get a mirror finish or to swag a barrel ever wanted to know how the top barrel makers do that? One way (and most used) is to plug the barrel with a cotton mop, with a jag extended forward, poor lead down that barrel and drive that lead button down the barrel. During this process you polish the rifling.

Anyhow, when you shoot the cartridge, the brass casing expands fills the chamber and forms a seal. This seal sends the projectile down the bore, the bore hole is rifled and the lands cut a grove in the projectile, dependent on the twist, length and projectile weight; the hope is to stabilize the projectile after it exits. Anyhow, the gas that is on FIRE has residue from a solid turning to a vapor, also from the heat of the vapor the heal of the projectile might melt some. If it does, this melted lead or copper (dependent on the jacket) will turn into a vapor also.

Once the projectile enters the atmosphere, the pressurized vapor has a exit and releases out the crown, dependent on the end contraption this vapor goes in some direction, or muti-directions.

Anyhow, the vapor leaves some of the residue in the barrel and the vaporized jacket also (the last to cover the rifling) (first to see). So this residue will fill in nicks, divots, ruts, and all that stuff in the barrel. How? well like I posted you only go so much "room" in the barrel. Once all these spots are filled, you will have a barrel that is constant in how it affects bullets as they move down range. The barrel only gets so full or dirty. After that point it stays at that level.

Have you ever gone and zero'ed your rifleat 100yds, a great grouping and call it quits. Go home clean the barrel and the next time you go to the range the zero has shifted? And you start all over again, zero the rifle, good group, go home clean the barrel, and go back to the range, and guess what? Yes re-zero the rifle all over again, and again, and again. Never getting past ZERO'ing that $%^&ING RIFLE!!!!

I HATE THIS!!!!!!!!!

So if you quit %^(&ing with the the barrel, and zero it, clean the action, stock, chamber with a mop. The next time at the range, the rifle will print at the same spot. Unless you screw with the optic. LEAVE IT ALONE!!!

So, do not clean your barrel. Its not a good idea.

John
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,599 Posts
Interesting...do you not even recommend running a patch down the barrel to remove lose crap and put a protective layer of oil/grease behind to prevent corrosion? Or is the "don't clean" just referring to those who scrub and scour a barrel with brushes, patches, solvents and so forth?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
It is true about cleaning a .22. I use to shoot Bullseye competion on a national level back in the mid 70's. I figured I would shoot about 5000 rounds or more a year through my Browning Medalist. I would give my gun a good cleaning about once a year. It would take me 200 rounds or more to get it back shooting good again. I never knew why that was so back then but it was something I just found out from shooting.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
434 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
All great info guys; thanks very much. Practicing a little Googlefu last night, it seemed to me that the slightly heavier bullets are better for accuracy and they are more drift resistant (throw ping pong vs. throw golf ball [over-simplified]). But again, at 100-200 yards, it might not matter much. We'll see.

I think I will start with the CCI Mini Mag or the Velocitor; 40gr

I had no idea about the barrel cleaning.

Edit: Just in; Federal Auto Match apparently works well too. Will get some
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,189 Posts
I rarely every clean my 10/22 barrel, but if you shoot ALOT you will have to clean it eventually. Last time I was shooting mine, all of the sudden in mid mag accuracy went out the door. When I puched the bore, a ridiculous amount of lead finally came it, it was filthy! It had been near 15,000 rounds since I had cleaned the barrel.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
8,069 Posts
Interesting...do you not even recommend running a patch down the barrel to remove lose crap and put a protective layer of oil/grease behind to prevent corrosion? Or is the "don't clean" just referring to those who scrub and scour a barrel with brushes, patches, solvents and so forth?
What's up.

Nope, just shoot more, rust blows out lol. Honestly it takes a real crappy climate like snow, for a long time or stored on the side of a ship in the ocean to require that level of care.

If you shoot more the once every 90days what's the point??

Now I do own a rod, I use it for stuck fire formed casings and case head seperations and stuff like that. I have been known to stick a battle comp or to in the dirt and need to punch a hole in one to un-clog the barrel. But past that nope.

John
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,166 Posts
Good stuff, John. Shot my Ruger 10/22 today and the XD. The rather poorly maintained .22 shot flawlessly, even feeding the Butler Creek mag now. However that dang XD had 3 FTE in four mags!
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top