Anyone in the Raleigh area have any good 6.0 experience?
kmc0929
And I'm just starting to learn about diesels. The 6.0 Powerstroke is fine in the later years, and thats if you keep it stock...unless you want to upgrade everything for it to stay reliable. The 2003 is the worst year from what I've read and been told. My neighbor has that year and has had a few injectors go out...and his is stock.
DS
DS
you looking for a shop or someone that can shed some light on an issue your having.. If your looking for a shop, I would recommend Trucks Unlimited in Winston Salem, I know its not in the Raleigh area but the owner (Scott) is a great guy to deal with and he knows his stuff.
If your looking for trouble shooting advise, I might be able to help you out.. I've been round and round my 6.0 lol
If your looking for trouble shooting advise, I might be able to help you out.. I've been round and round my 6.0 lol
I've come to the conclusion that its all about the individual truck and how its been taken care of, all years of 6.0s have injector issues. Some argue that the 2003 is a better engine to have due to the EGR cooler being a better design than 04+ and you can't beat the 10 blade turbo lol. I know folks that have never had an issue with 03-04s and I know people with 05-07s that have stayed in the shop constantly. Some times you get a good one, other times you get a trouble child, just have to do your homework and roll the dice.
Would rather have a 7.3 any time. Much better engine. Have heard lots of expensive problems come out of 6s.
I have a 2005 6.0, it sucks. About $1-2000 ever 6-12 months in repairs.
I FIX FORDS in Fuquay has done good work for me.
I FIX FORDS in Fuquay has done good work for me.
Rudy's in Durham hands down for power-stroke work. He has done a lot with them over the years from stock to highly modified.
Absolutely hands down the best for Powerstroke work...and I dont mean in North Carolina. Rudy's is known nation wide. We are just lucky they are based here in NC. All the parts and guidance for my 6.4L came from Rudys. Great guys.
Also just some advice for those looking to buy a diesel in the future...particuarly a Powerstoke, buy a 6.4L. The 6.0 is a great motor once bullet-proofed, but the 6.4L is the motor to have. Once you do the EGR and DPF delete you will have a motor that has the reliability of the 7.3 and power unknown to any other diesel with only a tuner, intake, exhaust and CAI. Decent fuel milage as well. This of course is only my honest opinion.
I think I know where you are going with this, running a lighter weight oil in winter for easier starts. I have always ran Shell Rotella 15W40 dino oil in all of my diesels year round and never had any problems. I did this after doing tons of research and finding out it simply doesnt get cold enough in the NC winters to justify switching oils.
The FICM is the culpret in alot of hard cold starts. Sometimes, if you batteries are aged, the glow plugs dont get the voltage they need either. IRP valves are known to go out as well causing a high pressure oil leak. When is the last time you changed the fuel filter?
I started running T6 in mine a couple years ago, made a noticeable all around difference in mine, even with 48v on the FICM... Temp deltas, FICM, IPR, EGR.. the OP has a lot to learn about these rigs doesn't he lol
I run T6 in mine also. Work done so far- new a/c compressor- died again after 13 months, new FICM, new rebuilt starter- last 16 months,a new starter, 2 new batteries, new EGR, 1 new tire - that one is my fault, new fuel pump, new water in fuel sensor that turned out to be a bad wire connecting it,....
And the hits just keep on coming- Filled up the tank the other day and it took about 2 days for the fuel gauge to read fuel. Will have to either drop the tank or raise the bed to replace fuel float.
I was having hard starts. That lead to the fuel pump and 6 months later the FICM. The rebuilt starter died 3 days after the FICM was put on. Got a new one from a place here in Angier. That is one strong starter! It will just about flip the truck over when you hit it, lol.
And the hits just keep on coming- Filled up the tank the other day and it took about 2 days for the fuel gauge to read fuel. Will have to either drop the tank or raise the bed to replace fuel float.
I was having hard starts. That lead to the fuel pump and 6 months later the FICM. The rebuilt starter died 3 days after the FICM was put on. Got a new one from a place here in Angier. That is one strong starter! It will just about flip the truck over when you hit it, lol.
When I had my Ford PS that was towing every weekend (80k per year) I used BG Diesel Conditioner. That stuff was awesome. No more hard starts and it ran much smoother. It also has a Cetane booster which helps a bunch.
http://www.bgprod.com/products/diesel.html
http://www.bgprod.com/products/diesel.html
had nothing but T6 in mine since i bought it with 50k on it. getting ready to turn over 100k and the only problem i've had is a bad ficm.
switch out the coolant for elc coolant like cat, keeps the passages in the oil cooler from gelling up. when that oil cooler clogs up is when problems start. also delete the egr cooler, no way for it to dump coolant into the cylinders if it isnt there.
you didnt say what year you have, but if its '05 or later you need to upgrade the stand pipe and dummy plugs along with the stc fitting. all known problems that will leave you stranded.
trucks unlimited, havent had any personal experience but know lots of guys that have went there.
swing on by carolina powerstroke association on powerstroke.org
switch out the coolant for elc coolant like cat, keeps the passages in the oil cooler from gelling up. when that oil cooler clogs up is when problems start. also delete the egr cooler, no way for it to dump coolant into the cylinders if it isnt there.
you didnt say what year you have, but if its '05 or later you need to upgrade the stand pipe and dummy plugs along with the stc fitting. all known problems that will leave you stranded.
trucks unlimited, havent had any personal experience but know lots of guys that have went there.
swing on by carolina powerstroke association on powerstroke.org
May be off OP topic about mechanic but make sure to plug it up when cold to save the starter/batteries/glow plugs. Glow plugs will cost about 1k if the Ford place does it. Cheaper to keep the bloxk warm.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Carter..what's your MPGs? I have a buddy that has a duramax with EFI Live, lifted on 35s that gets 24 mpgs on I40 with cruise on 70-75mph!!!! DirtySCREWs 5.4L Triton only gets 14-15 on highway and its stock other than intake and exhaust!! Pisses me off to no end!
DS
sent from the Honeybadger Messaging Service
LOL. Is he going by the lie-o-meter or is his mileage hand calculated? Stock i was getting about 12mpg city/14mpg highway after mods I was getting 16mpg city/18-20 highway depending on distance and speeds and not towing. My LB7 duramax (non-emmisions motor) got 24mpg highway. All of my diesels have been stock tire sizes.
+1 on switching to red coolant. I switched to Zerex ELC (Napa for $13.95/gal). Stuff is rated for 600,000 miles and no silicates or phosphates to gum up and clog your oil cooler. Like diablos30 said, thats when the problems begin on the 6.0s. I also had a coolant filter from dieselsite.com. You can tell by your deltas if your oil cooler is starting to clog. Deltas are the difference between your oil temp and coolant temp BTW. Mine are hardly ever more than 4-6 degrees difference. Once you get to more than 14-15 degrees difference then its time to start planning on replacing your oil cooler.
I've had three trucks with 6.0's, and still have one of them ('03 Excursion that I bought new). The '03 have 155K miles on it and still going strong.
As others have said, the thing to do is to get rid of the EGR cooler before it damages the engine.
+1 for Rudy's in Durham. As the dealers go, Capitol Ford used to have a great diesel shop. For a great independent garage, Poe's Automotive in Apex is really good - their lead mechanic Joe is well versed on 6.0's.
As others have said, the thing to do is to get rid of the EGR cooler before it damages the engine.
+1 for Rudy's in Durham. As the dealers go, Capitol Ford used to have a great diesel shop. For a great independent garage, Poe's Automotive in Apex is really good - their lead mechanic Joe is well versed on 6.0's.
Here's the web link to Rudy's so you can see some of the stuff he has done with sled trucks and drag racing. He can fix you up mild to wild.
http://www.rudysdiesel.com/
http://www.rudysdiesel.com/
Hand calculated. His lie-o-meter says he's getting 30 something. Lol
DS
sent from the Honeybadger Messaging Service
What year duramax? LB7s have great mileage and the LBZ has decent since they added a 6th gear that year.
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