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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So...

As my intro explained, I just finished my first AR build. I bought a complete Stag upper, and want to add one of PSA's ejection port covers. I've had the cover since labor day, and just bought the wrench to get it off. I didnt buy a vise block, but I improvised with wood. I had the upper locked into the vise so that it didnt move. I cant get the damn nut to budge. I tried rubber mallet.. I tried a hammer.. I even duct taped the D-ring down so it would be out of my way. All I can do is slip off of the nut. I finally gave up when I noticed the metal flakes on the D-Ring...

What do I do?
 

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So...

I didnt buy a vise block, but I improvised with wood. I had the upper locked into the vise so that it didnt move. I cant get the damn nut to budge. I tried rubber mallet.. I tried a hammer.. I even duct taped the D-ring down so it would be out of my way. All I can do is slip off of the nut. I finally gave up when I noticed the metal flakes on the D-Ring...

What do I do?
BTW what D ring you talking about?
And with out the correct tools, a good Vise it will be real hard.
Some builders are also using locktite due to a life time warranty. Why, I don't know but some of the guys at gun shows were also and say it is needed with FF tubes. I call BS.....
 

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I had multiple intentions. One was to do a thorough cleaning, complete teardown. I just figured I would wait for the teardown for the cover.
you want to do a thorough cleaning, the best your gun has had......
Stick it in the dish washer. Or carry it to the car wash.

No need to pull a barrel to give a good cleaning.
 

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Im guessing when he says "D-ring", he means delta ring.
I dont believe you can get the pin for the dust cover to slide out backwards on an AR?
Anyways. I know some companies fail to use any kind of lube on the threads when they are assembled. You should be careful, you could strip the teeth on that barrel nut.
 

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some of them are torqued way too tight . when i removed the barrel on my AR45 for the first time . I put it in a vice mounted on a desk , i grabbed the wrench and ripped the whole top off the desk. finally had to use a rubber mallet on the wrench to break it loose.
 

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Im guessing when he says "D-ring", he means delta ring.
I dont believe you can get the pin for the dust cover to slide out backwards on an AR?
Anyways. I know some companies fail to use any kind of lube on the threads when they are assembled. You should be careful, you could strip the teeth on that barrel nut.
I have done it in several, now that I think if it they were A1 and 9mm that had the short cover. I replaced the short cover with the full cover so I know you can. But on some of the flat tops, or with a Brass deflector, I would need to go look.
 

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My gun vice is mounted to a 3/8" 14" plate welded to a 4x6" 3/8" tube that goes to plate steel on the floor that's about 4'x4'.
You may make it rock or move it a little but I love it, Have used a 6' breaker bar on parts to get something tight or loose and it works.
Add a AR and a upper vise, it just looks funny....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Im guessing when he says "D-ring", he means delta ring.
I dont believe you can get the pin for the dust cover to slide out backwards on an AR?
Anyways. I know some companies fail to use any kind of lube on the threads when they are assembled. You should be careful, you could strip the teeth on that barrel nut.
This was my understanding originally. I studied it, and it appeared the pin needed to slide forward to come off. By D-ring, I mean Delta ring. My desk is a standard wooden workbench, topped with a 1.5" steel plate on one corner. Vise attached to it.....Overkill- I know..
 

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OK just went a grabbed one of mine, Few ways pending your hand guard and or nut.
If you look at the back hole, it is thinner then the front, giving you a little movement.
Pull the c clip off the front of the rod with small pliers. Then move the pin to the rear and slowly pull the rod under the FA and BD. Your lower will need to be off the gun.
Second way is to pull the C clip, slid the pin to the rear to clear the front hole then tilt the pin up and move to the front to clear the rear hole.

I have done them both ways and just did it the first way on one if mine.
Also called a friend to ask, he rebuilt M-16's and M4 for the military when he was in the service, That was how they did them in field repairs when the barrel was not removed and everything gauged fine.

Be careful with the little c clip they are easy to loose and hard to fined.
I have went to the bathroom, shut the door when working on small parts like this.
When working on old guns that parts are not around and you can not find much info, I tape up the drain then sit in the tub. It has saved me more then on time dealing with guns that are 100 plus years on and would take forever to get a part.....
 

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Its not the brass deflector but the forward assist that is in the way it appears.
But multiple places on the intraweb say you can do it out the back.
Yep That was what I remembered. I just tested it also.
 
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