Start with an engineer.

 

Cutting the hole is easy (yet messy). You can use a circular saw with a masonry blade and an assortment of chisels to do that. Wear a mask.

Depending on how the joists run inside is where the difficulty comes in. If they run parallel to the wall you are cutting you can go to town, if they run perpendicular then they are a load bearing wall and will have to be braced on the inside using a heavy cross beam (across the entire span of the hole) and some metal jack stands. Once the hole is cut you will have to brace the top of the opening with a steel beam or a really big laminated beam. Again how big depends on whether the wall is load bearing or not.

It's best to practice this kind of project on a friend's house first.

 

This is good to know. The joists run perpendicular to the exterior wall. To complicate matters, an interior wall also runs perpendicular and in the middle of the planned opening, with finished space on one side and partially finished space on the other. I see this interior wall as more of a nuisance than anything else since I don't think it is load bearing.

So it sounds like I would have to blow out the interior wall that I am moving first so I have unfettered access the the area where the opening will be. Then support the entire span of the planned doorway with floor jacks under the joists close to the exterior wall.

My question is, what holds up all that brick veneer when I cut/remove? Will it stay in place?

 

i wouldn't attempt this by myself. you'll need a header across that span to keep the brick from collapsing, usually there is a metal one with brick (the name escapes me).

 

You need an engineer. You've got to support the joists and veneer both during const. and permanently. You probably won't be able to get a permit without a stamped drawing.

 

I would ask the EPA neighbor where he wanted a new hole.


Wait....better be more specific than that. Offer to perform this gravity defying move on his brick wall first.

 

I would ask the EPA neighbor where he wanted a new hole.

Wait....better be more specific than that. Offer to perform this gravity defying move on his brick wall first.

He actually decided to make nice last week. He's got a two car garage and a two car carport he added, and owns an old volunteer firehouse for the rest of his old cars. Maybe I should rent a bay from him.

 

I know an engineer I can use for this. I usually surprise myself with the projects I'm able to pull off by myself, but I don't think this is going to one of them.

 

This is where you have to be careful. No sledge hammers, only the chisels. Also the jack stands have to be tight so a whole bunch of extra weight doesn't stress the exterior wall.

That interior wall doesn't sound like an issue. Technically, you would need a permit for something like this.

 

Best thing you could possibly do is buy a case of your favorite adult beverage, make sure you have a fresh refill of checks in the checkbook and sit back and watch how a profession does it. Just saying......
You could turn a DIY into a DITY... (did it to yourself)

 

You could turn a DIY into a DITY... (did it to yourself)

This is why this is one of my favorite quotes...

 

a lintel, thats what i was thinking of, been a few years since i've done any masonry work

http://www.masonrysystems.org/knowledge/basics/lintels/

 

Have it drawn, a PE can review it and mark what size of steel or lvl header you need for the span. Wil need to put hangers on the ends of the joists to fasten into the new header/beam.

Since interior wall runs parallel with the joists, it's not load bearing. Remove accordingly.

Will need a new angle iron/lintel to span the opening, extend roughly 6" past the opening on each side, and be lag bolted to the structure. Use 2x6 to wrap the opening and either paint or wrap that with aluminum coil.

A temporary wall can be framed in place to support the live load above while the opening is created and completed.

Oh, will need a permit.

 

Have it drawn, a PE can review it and mark what size of steel or lvl header you need for the span. Wil need to put hangers on the ends of the joists to fasten into the new header/beam.

Since interior wall runs parallel with the joists, it's not load bearing. Remove accordingly.

Will need a new angle iron/lintel to span the opening, extend roughly 6" past the opening on each side, and be lag bolted to the structure. Use 2x6 to wrap the opening and either paint or wrap that with aluminum coil.

A temporary wall can be framed in place to support the live load above while the opening is created and completed.

Too bad you're not closer. You would have just been hired.

 

Even if I get past the engineering and structural headaches of this project there are other headaches, like the driveway that will need to be poured with a 10' climb from back of the house to front, over about 40-45 feet. My next hot rod to park in the "new" garage would need to be 4x4.

 

I can't properly cut a hole in a new door for the doorknob, so I'm no help.

 

I imagine a saw cutting along a mortar line and sliding the lintel or an I beam into the slot but cant figure how to support the upper brick during the process. likely something similar a few courses of brick above...

 

In a real world project, we would remove the brick veneer to allow unobstructed access to place the new header.

Our demo sub does wonders with cleaning brick to reuse later.

 

After attempting one time to not remove some I know why. It faster and easier to remove it and just put it back that try to preform some miracle and keep it from cracking and falling out when you least expect it.

 

@trcubed

 

I think what has been determined is that I will out of my depth to do this solo, which is the usual criteria for my DIY projects. Even if I get it engineered, which I would, I think I am still beyond my abilities with only two hands (meaning mine).

 

Before you get too far into this project, check with local building inspection department to see if the residential building code will allow this type of alteration. You'll probably need the proper fire separation on the ceiling and walls.

 

If the ceiling is drywalled, that would be an acceptable fire stop to separate a garage area from the home.

FG- you may be asked to change any hollow core interior doors leading into this area to a solid core door rated for at least 20 min of fire protection.

 

Fieldgrade...what is your schedule to do this?

You've gotten good advice so far...permit required (it's a structural modification), lintel to support the brick above the new opening, and a engineered beam to support the joists inside the opening. You'll also need to do some temporary construction to allow taking the load off the existing wall while installing the support beams.

Another point that I don't think has been raised, but which direction do your roof rafters span? If they sit on the top of the wall directly above the new opening, the new beams will need to be sized to carry much more than just the first floor.

There may be other pertinent details that arise.

 

I purposefully didn't want to get into details but, R302.6 says "Not less than 5/8-inch Type X (fire resistant) gypsum board or equivalent". Without an inspection of the materials used it's not wise to say "If the ceiling is drywalled, that would be an acceptable fire stop".

Again, check with a building code authority not a builder, contractor, bubba builder, internet, or structural engineer to be on the safe side before you possibly waste time and money.

 

A second layer of sheetrock over the first, along with upgrading any hollowcore doors, will likely satisfy the code requirement.

 

All good points here, and thanks.
As most of y'all know here I have lots of hair brained schemes from time to time. Some actually work out. This one has been simmering for a couple of years so I decided to consult the hive mind at CSC. You all never let me down.

 

All good points here, and thanks.
As most of y'all know here I have lots of hair brained schemes from time to time. Some actually work out. This one has been simmering for a couple of years so I decided to consult the hive mind at CSC. You all never let me down.

What you're wanting to do has been done many times. You just need to go thru the proper steps to satisfy your HOA, the city/county authorities, and not drop the brick wall on your noggin.

 

Also don't drive in garages need a retaining lip around then to prevent fuel and the like from entering the living space?

 

This is a good idea whether it's required or not because a finished basement den will be on the other side of the wall if I actually do this.