#1, get rid of any aftermarket crap alarms system installed. The manufacture has a factory system that is far better.
#2, are you using decent batteries?
#3, Direct ground will never, ever cause a battery draw. Battery is grounded to frame directly. An alarm being grounded at the frame will be the same thing as direct to battery.

 

I tried to do that this morning. I disconnected the alarm wires from the battery cables but when I hooked the cables back to the battery, the alarm started sounding again. Just like if you tried to snip a home alarm system and it activates as a fail safe.

So I hooked it all back up for now. My end goal is to get rid of the alarm thingy but it doesn't seem as simple as disconnecting from the battery.

 

Your dad is right, if there is a constant drain from the alarm system it doesn't matter whether it's grounded on the chassis or at the terminal. It is still a closed circuit.

 

What the monkey said, oh I mean @gtownwrench that guy is blowing smoke up your rear.
You need to take an amp measurement to see what the alarm is drawing but first check the charging system to see what it's doing could be over charging the battery and warping the plates or under charging and calcifying them.

 

my jeep would eat a battery down in a couple of days...

tried optima (crap), interstate, and whatever brand batteries plus are..

battery would go dead so often that they would not charge anymore

took the alarm system and unplugged it and no more issues

 

Alarms generally don't draw that much current. I've left my truck for months with the alarm armed and never had an issue with the battery being drained.

Now the new truck. Anything more than a few days and it's battery would be nearly dead. It had no alarm other than factory. The dealer replaced the battery before I bought it indicating they saw a problem too.

I was pulling off the dash to replace some instrument illumination lights when I was greeted by a green LED behind the radio. Found a cell phone amplifier tucked away, switched on, that was causing the drain.

I suspect something other than the alarm is the source of your drain.

 

First thing I would try is not driving in the left lane constantly. The current drain is always higher when in that lane so it could be the most of your issue.

 

Look up "draw test", do it.
Disconnect stuff or remove fuses until your draw is 50mA or less, preferably less, any "big" drops figure out what on that circuit is staying powered, switch it, remove it, or fix it as applicable.
The only trick to this test is overriding the door sensors, hood lamp, and waiting long enough for the modules to "sleep".
Some multi-meters auto-off and cause slight headaches as a loss of continuity will cause modules to power back up when continuity is restored usually popping a multi-meter fuse, a jumper wire parallel to the multi-meter while not actively testing prevents this. Never tried an amp clamp, might be better still if they read low enough.

 

low amp clamp with a scope is the shiznay. Can use one on some mutlimeters

 

I honestly came to this thread expecting some smart assery about how his right turn signal won't work so he can't get out of the left lane safely.

 

Or the left signal is always on. Being a good guy he has to get into the left lane. That could draw down the battery..

On a serious note:
Have you checked the charging circuit?
At night, check for some light still on 15min or more after turn off?

-R

 

Does the battery drain down over night or do they just ware out quicker than they are supposed to? Form the description it sounded like it would be fine for a couple years then go bad.

 

The battery I purchased new in 9/2013 was fine until last November. The truck sat for a week then it wouldn't start, dead battery.

Once I jumped it, it had a weak sounding start until yesterday. I was on vacation for 5 days and I drained out. Wouldn't hold a charge overnight so I bought a new one today.

 

Now's the time to check your charging system to see if it is under or over charging the new battery.