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Flashlights

1.1K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  BoppaBear  
#1 ·
I need to get two flashlights to weapon mount. Can I get some recc. on a good lightweight light? I'd say it needs to be at least over 100 lumens, 200 preferable. Weight is important. Must be 1" though, as I already have the mounts.

I have a list to take a look at, but wanted to see what you guys recc to check as well.
 
#9 ·
Done some more looking at lights, and man are there lots of choices out there. I ended up with a lsit of 19 or 20. Then narrowed it down from there to a list of 6. I wanted soemthing at a reasonable price, but price wasn't the main criteria. Although I really didn't want to spend much over $150 each, since I need to buy two of them.

My final 6 were:
*Eagletac T20C2 $70 580 lumen 4.3oz
*Fenix PD32 R5 $60 315 lumen 3.8 oz
*Inforce WML $120 125 lumen 3.0 oz
*Olight M21-x $83 600 lumen 4.3 oz
*SL Protac HL $69 600 lumen 5.6 oz
*SL TLR-1s $110 160 lumen 5.3 oz

I have other data on each one, such as battery, battery life, switching, fun time, waterproofing, size, etc but too much to list. The above are the main points.

Then I thinned the herd down to the SL Protac HL, the SL TLR-1s, and the Inforce WML. Now just need to decide between on two of those three. I know I don't need more than 100-200 lumen inside, but the problem is that you never know if it would be needed outside or inside. The reflection from 600 lumen off sheetrock inside would probably blind both the perp and you. But outside, 100 lumens is weak. So what's a guy to do? Compromise on something in the 200-300 lumen range? Nothing on my list fits that bill.

I really like the looks of the Inforce WML. Has anybody played with one? They have a white light/IR version that is more expensive ($150) and I'd probably go with that if I choose the Inforce. And it's the lightest weight of the bunch, an important factor for me.

Now Chris throws that curve ball into the mix! Chris, do you have a recc.? I'm already fairly decided on two of these last three. But am always open to ideas from professionals.
 
#11 ·
Done some more looking at lights, and man are there lots of choices out there. I ended up with a lsit of 19 or 20. Then narrowed it down from there to a list of 6. I wanted soemthing at a reasonable price, but price wasn't the main criteria. Although I really didn't want to spend much over $150 each, since I need to buy two of them.

My final 6 were:
*Eagletac T20C2 $70 580 lumen 4.3oz
*Fenix PD32 R5 $60 315 lumen 3.8 oz
*Inforce WML $120 125 lumen 3.0 oz
*Olight M21-x $83 600 lumen 4.3 oz
*SL Protac HL $69 600 lumen 5.6 oz
*SL TLR-1s $110 160 lumen 5.3 oz

I have other data on each one, such as battery, battery life, switching, fun time, waterproofing, size, etc but too much to list. The above are the main points.

Then I thinned the herd down to the SL Protac HL, the SL TLR-1s, and the Inforce WML. Now just need to decide between on two of those three. I know I don't need more than 100-200 lumen inside, but the problem is that you never know if it would be needed outside or inside. The reflection from 600 lumen off sheetrock inside would probably blind both the perp and you. But outside, 100 lumens is weak. So what's a guy to do? Compromise on something in the 200-300 lumen range? Nothing on my list fits that bill.

I really like the looks of the Inforce WML. Has anybody played with one? They have a white light/IR version that is more expensive ($150) and I'd probably go with that if I choose the Inforce. And it's the lightest weight of the bunch, an important factor for me.

Now Chris throws that curve ball into the mix! Chris, do you have a recc.? I'm already fairly decided on two of these last three. But am always open to ideas from professionals.
I heard nothing but negatives about the Inforce lights when they first came out but I don't have any time on one so I'm not sure of the validity of those claims. Of the lights in your list, I'd probably go with the TLR-1. I've had good luck with my personal TLR-1s and haven't heard of many issues with them. The TLR has a benefit of allowing you to mount it at 12 o'clock if you are looking to try a light in that position.

While its not on your top 6 list, I'd again suggest the Surefire G2X. It's pushing 350 lumens and only costs $67/light. An added plus is the ability to change out LED units and bump up the output should you feel it's needed.

http://www.skdtac.com/SureFire-G2X-Tactical-p/sur.170.htm
 
#12 ·
Yeah, that looks like a reasonable option as well. We have alot of pretty good options these days. I have the Olight M20-x Warrior rated at 500 lumens I keep beside the bed. I did think about using it. And still might. But am leaning towards a lower output light this time.

I'm sure Chris is saying that you don't want to be in a criticsal situation and hit the light and have it come on in low mode when you meant to have, and need, high mode. That is a danger when you have multiple mode lights on a weapon. I think the programmable lights take care of most of this concern (program it so that it always turns on on high or on medium or on low... user's choice). But not all of it.
 
#13 ·
Hey Chris, can you explain why/the problem with them please. Just want some insight. Thanks.

JB, I also have an Olight i6 Paladin. Its 420 lumes, and is a great light. Check it out also.

http://www.amazon.com/Olight-I6-LED-Flashlight/dp/B005GMF15G
As was just mentioned, I want the weapon light to always come on in its brightest mode. It sucks to need light and you're stucking cycling through illumination settings in order to get the one you want. In a situation where you are using the light for a searching task such as clearing a house, cycling from dim to bright can easily cause you to miss someone/thing.

If you need a small amount of light, you can always look at adding something like tip-off diffusion filter.
 
#14 ·
Opps... I started typing before Chris's post came up.

Yeah, there was initial concern over the Inforce WML when it first hit the market. They did have a problem. Something about a delay in switching modes IIRC. Or maybe locking you out of a mode. But as I understand it, they corrected all that and no issue any longer. So there is a difference between the earlier models and the ones out now.

I'd want to try the Inforce at the 12 o'clock position. It just looks like it's made to sit there. But probably won't work as they don't take tape switches, and it will very likely be much more natural hitting the switch sitting at 9 o'clock.

One reason I have the TLR-1 on the finalist list is that I want to try it on my Glock too. I never have decided about putting a light on the Glock. Give them something to aim at vs. having a free hand to open doors, etc. But will give it a try. Most of the military guys I've talked with about it like one on there. But they far and away use their carbines, not their handguns.

If I go with the TLR-1, I have to decide between strobe or IR. Will a 125 lumen strobe be that effective? The Inforce also offers IR, but no strobe. I'll probably go with strobe on one and IR on the other.

I have the Surefire G2X mounted on another carbine. Yep, it's a solid and popular choice. I just want to try something different this time.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Strobes are useless feature in my book. I was all about it when strobing lights first hit the market but as I got more expereince with them the more I learned it wasnt that effective.


When it comes to pistol mounted lights; they are an awesome force multiplier. They are not a replacement for a handheld light though. The weaspon light shines (pun intended) if we are looking at things from a pure gunfighting perspective, but there are limitiations that come along with them.
 
#17 ·
I've got a G2 (non the tactical) that I like. It's a night stand light. It is nice and bright, but my only complaint is the dual output with the first click being low beam. I have a EB1 Backup on the way for my VTAC mount, and it has the click switch too. Difference is that first click is SUPPOSED to be high beam. Didn't want the tactical swictch due to the button only being temporary on, and constant on requires twisting of the end cap. For what it's worth, I've also had good luck with my TLR-1s (mounted on P220) and my TLR-1s HP w/ remote switch (good on an AR).