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Has anyone here tried hot glue bullets?

4.3K views 35 replies 21 participants last post by  twofocused  
#1 ·
So I figud I would give this a try. I ordered a .452 lee mould and started moulding a few bullets. I used my 45 colt cartridges which I drilled out to 1/8 diameter. Than I primed them with magnum primers and put the bullets in. A few shots in the garage and I am hooked. From about 15 feet, the gluelets go through two layers of cardboard and leave a good smack on the dry wall.
 
#8 ·
How do you mold them in the Lee bullet mold, do you leave the sprue plate open? I assume you would have to.
Do they pop right out when cooled off, or do you do anything to the mold to get them to release?

Thanks,
Lou
 
#13 ·
Got this from a friend in Texas:

Take an empty “fired” case and chuck into a drill press
(The fired case makes a bullet just larger than bore diameter – a sized case is too small)
Run the drill and use a file on the outside of the open mouth to sharpen it a bit.
Run the drill and cut holes out of a piece of ½” thick hard rubber.
(I will have to think a bit about where I got the sheet of ½” rubber).

Load into sized & belled brass with only a primer (2gr bullseye makes it lethal up close) .
Seat and taper crimp (mostly just to straighten the bell).

Shoots straight out to 10 or 15 feet.
Reusable!

Will certainly teach the dogs not to F’ck with the trash (2gr bullseye)…
Will smash the stuffin out of roaches.
Whacks Coke cans pretty good.

Works great in revolvers – have to cycle by hand on autos.
 
#15 ·
So my task home is that you can make a projectile out of almost anything. Powered by primer only, it's pretty fun. I am going to start brainstorming on what else I can load. Perhaps some buckwheat or rice to act like buch shot? Candy corn? The possibilities are limitless!
 
#16 ·
This post inspired me to give it a try. Being impatient, and not wanting to wait for a bullet mold, I tried a slightly different method. I have some 7/16 diameter hot glue sticks, which I cut into 3/8" lengths with a razor. I then tap an unprimed 38 Special case into the end with a rubber mallet. This cuts the projectile to the inside diameter of the case and at the same time seats it flush with the case mouth like a wadcutter. Then I prime. I have only Tula standard SPP, but they seem to work fine. I didn't drill out the flash hole, so I'll be able to use these cases for regular loads later. They'll punch through the front and lodge in the back of an empty soda can, and don't seem to do anything to the top of a hardboard table I have as a backstop.

One thing that's causing problems, though, is that the struck primers wind up protruding very slightly, which causes my Ruger Service Six to seize up. These same primers weren't causing any problems with regular handloads in the same gun. Any thoughts as to what is causing this, and what I can do to fix it?
 
#19 ·
Drilling out the flash hole might help stop the primers from backing out
I've had the same problem with some of my very light .44 mag loads. I've not researched it, but my guess is that there isn't enough pressure to stretch out the primer and hold it tight in the case. When I raised the amount of powder I use in my mousefart loads, the problem went away.
 
#21 · (Edited)
I was just talking about posting something like this up. I just finished some. They are nothing special and I had to get creative on a mold but I have 2 sucessful test fires. It was shot thru a hi-point c9 or what ever

Also I didn't flare are sand or do anything to prep the cas cept a resize and deprime

Took some pics and a video, stand by


Image


Image


Image
 
#23 ·
Is the 'hot glue' more wax than glue? I would figure anything with the word glue in it would gum up the rifling.
Mine are made out of the hot glue sticks for hot glue guns you get at Wally world.
 
#24 ·
There are two reasons to drill out the primer holes; to get more pressure in to the cartridge and keep the primer from backing out. I use magnum primers so they have a lot of punch. My understanding is that you can add a bit of powder to it but I would be afraid if making it too powerful or loud for indoors. The bullets easily pass through two layers of extra thick cardboard and leave a nice dent in the drywall behind them, and the primer is plenty loud. I may try them at the range with some powder though.

As far as the glue, my understanding that hot glue isn't really glue. It's simply a plastic which melts easily and solidifies easily. It's just marketed as glue because of these properties. The barrel cleans very easily. And worse case scenario, goof off will dissolve the plastic.
 
#25 ·
Old fashioned Crayola crayons are 30 caliber and work very well for cat sneeze rifle loads... I have used them in 30-30, 30-06, .308 and 32-20. After my kids grew up, I collected all the crayons and put them in the reloading cabinet. I'm making a 32-20 batch now for my Buckeye Blackhawk.

I haven't tried thicker crayons to see how close they are to 45 or 9mm, but they could be sized easily.

Wish I could find primed .22 rimfire cases...
 
#26 ·
Wish I could find primed .22 rimfire cases...
Why not just buy crummy 22 and use pliers to pull the bullet out? It isn't seated with any great force. Dump the powder, and the priming compound stays in the rim.

Obviously not something you'd necessarily want to do now, where even crummy 22 ammo like Golden Bullets are hard to find. But when (if) things die down, pick up a box of GBs and go to town.