[Flashpoint]

I want to cut my SU-16's barrel back to a total overall length of 16.1" with a flash hider installed. I know this means permanently installed (welded, etc.). The reason for this is obvious when you examine the image below. The stock barrel is 18.5", if I can knock over 2" off it will fit in a much smaller space when folded. I'll also be glad to be rid of the ugly front sight.

I want a flash hider for both flash suppression and muzzle protection. Also since the SU-16 does not give straight on access to the chamber end I may occasionally have to insert a cleaning rod from the muzzle end, and I can rig a bore guide pretty easy with a flash suppressor attached.

Can anyone recommend an effective flash suppressor, the shorter the better but up to 1.5" is OK. Also, since it must be permanently attached, should it be threaded? WHat other way do they come? Does anyone know does it have to be welded or can I thread it on but use red locktite or JBweld or similar in the threads to permanently attach it? I'm leery of welding because although I have friends who are master welders, I'm sure the finish will have to be removed and then reapplied somehow. I'd much rather bypass that step somehow if at all possible. I also worry about heating the barrel that much.

Can anyone offer any expertise / suggestions? Thanks.

 

[Wahoo95]

Look into having YHM Phantom pinned and welded.

 

[Lex]

This tutorial is from AR15.com
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782
(pics and tutorial are about 4/5 of the way down the page)

How to permanently attach a muzzle device:

If you have a barrel that is 14.5", you must permanently attach a muzzle device that makes the total lenght 16" or more. Best to go 16.1" at least to be safe. For the 14.5" barrel, it is commonly accepted to use the Vortex or Phantom style of flash supressors. The ATF states to be permanently attached, the muzzle device cannot be removed with hand tools easily and must use 1100 degree silver solder, blind pinnned and welded, or welded completely around the barrel. This writeup will demonstrate the most common method, the blind pin and weld.

This was originally posted by wildearp, I am just using the basics of his post for this section:

Start by predrilling the muzzle device through one side - while removed from the barrel. The drill size should be the same diameter as your pin size. Coat hanger works great.:

Next - attach the muzzle device, time it with a peel or crush washer, and then drill into the barrel, using the hole in the muzzle device as a guide. A drill press works well here, to ensure you do not drill too deep. If you penetrate the bore you will destroy the accuracy of the barrel - go slow here. You only need to drill deep enough to accept the pin.

Now we are ready to insert the pin.... this is coat hanger, cut to fit.:

Before welding, cover the barrel well to ensure you dont mark it up with welding splatter. Wrap it well. Melted adhesive comes off. Welding splatter doesnt so well. (another great option here is to wrap the barrel surfaces with a few layers of aluminum foil.... no adhesive mess.

 

[Flashpoint]

Great, thanks.

I always assumed pinning would not require threading as well but I guess it does in order to "time" it with a crush washer, etc. I also thought pinning would entail cutting a groove on one side of the barrel and the pin would go all the way through without contacting the bore. I learned a few things.

 

[CHRIS]

You don't have to worry about timing if you use a Smith Ent. Vortex or the original Phantom (YHM-28A). Just wanted to throw that out there.

EDIT: What is your barrel diameter where you want it cut and threaded?

CHRIS

 

[Flashpoint]

What is your barrel diameter where you want it cut and threaded?

Don't know. The only mics I own are 35 miles away, I need to find time to get them so I can measure it.

 

[cochraneap]

smith ent Vortex. I have them on all of my ARs. cuts flash down to practically zero and very reasonably priced.

 

[Flashpoint]

Think I'm going to go with an A2. Reasonably effective, won't kick up dust when prone, inexpensive, and classic looks.