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gettin' a S&W 66-7 .357...

2K views 26 replies 14 participants last post by  flivver  
#1 ·
Picking it up this week... I'm excited -- it's my first revolver.

What do I need to know? Anything special to know about cleaning it (again, it's my first revolver)? Field stripping amounts to opening the cylinder, I gather. :) Anything else to be aware of?
 
#2 ·
Revolver

Careful don't feed 'em after midnight, they'll multiply.

On top of normal barrel and cylendar cleaning don't forget to clean in the corners of the backstrap.
 
#4 ·
I've had a 66-2 with the 6" barrel since I bought it new in 80's. Treat it right and it will last you forever.
 
#7 ·
#15 ·
Not a Model 66, but a S&W nonetheless. My Model 10.

Once you go S&W, you never go back!

Image
 
#17 ·
Remove the screw from in front of the trigger, GENTLY swing out the cylinder and remove the cylinder assembly. That should be all the stripping you need to do.

Get a Lewis Lead Remover for the bore.
There's no good reason to remove the cylinder assembly for routine cleaning - leave it and the sideplate alone.

As to the Lewis Lead Remover - if you're not shooting lead bullets, there's no need for it. Even if you are shooting lead, unless you're having a problem with leading, you ought not need more than occasional use.

IMO, people spend way too much time cleaning their wheelgun, trying to get it looking new. At best, it's unnecessary. At worst, you can end up damaging or adding wear to the gun. The front face of the cylinder, in particular, seems to bring out peoples' obsessive side. Just wipe the heavy stuff off, then let the rest be. It'll just come back, and getting it like "factory new" is a losing battle.

After shooting, wipe the gun down with solvent. Get the stuff between the forcing cone and the top strap. Then run a solvent soaked patch through the bore (preferable from the breech end) and chambers, followed by a dry one. If you shoot .38spls through a .357mag, occasionally run a brush through the chambers. Even here, it doesn't need to be done every time you shoot .38spls.

Every so often, I'll use a brass brush & solvent on the front of the forcing cone (and in the space under the top strap) as well as on the front of the cylinder, the cylinder flutes, the cylinder stop slots, and on the ejector star on the back of the cylinder.

Anything else to be aware of?
I'm surprised no one mentioned this: When shooting .357mags through any k-frame .357, stick with 158gr, and avoid 125gr ammo.
 
#19 ·
Really? Wow... Why's that? (Not doubting -- just surprised.)
Damage to the forcing cone, and hot gas cutting the top strap.

The 125s seem to really impact the forcing cone particularly hard, while simultaneously spewing some seriously hot gas through the cylinder gap, and up into the top strap area. Compared to the larger L-frame, both of these areas on the K-frame are thinner and more susceptible. Even with 158gr .357mag ammo, it's best to not feed a steady diet of mag ammo through your 66 if you're going to shoot it a lot.
 
#20 ·
Damage to the forcing cone, and hot gas cutting the top strap.

The 125s seem to really impact the forcing cone particularly hard, while simultaneously spewing some seriously hot gas through the cylinder gap, and up into the top strap area. Compared to the larger L-frame, both of these areas on the K-frame are thinner and more susceptible. Even with 158gr .357mag ammo, it's best to not feed a steady diet of mag ammo through your 66 if you're going to shoot it a lot.
Good to know -- thanks!

My plan was to shoot 38 spl 95% of the time... Just shoot enough 357 to be comfortable with it, so that I can have it loaded with 357 when on the night stand (for example).
 
#24 ·
As requested, a pic!

(BTW, do I need to keep chamber under the hammer empty? Been reading some, and it's not entirely obvious what the right answer is.)
Short answer no, you do not need to keep the chamber under the hammer empty. Congratulations that is one nice piece, I've got a model 65 that would love to hang out some time.