Below is how I Lube an AR. I usually use any quality grease like:
Miltech grease
Montana extreme grease
Midway house brand gun grease
Most grease is for lube not for protection. So everything gets a light coat of weapons shield or CLP.
Then the grease goes on. I do put a little grease on the buffer spring.
Think I might try this grease next:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=633453
Below shows how to take the bolt apart, but I would never use the firing pin for a punch.
Also you may never need to remove the extractor.
Pipe cleaners from the hobby shop come in handy to clean small spaces. I like white.
Never put a Q-tip in the gas tube part of the bolt carrier. The head will come off inside.
Make sure the extractor faces the correct way when inserting the bolt in the carrier.
I was taught that the gaps in the gas rings should not be lined up, so I use a tooth pick to stagger them.
I have recently tried some Slip 2000 CLP and like it too as a cleaner and light lube.
For AR's you need the chamber brush. I like the one's that come with their own handle.
This guy has done some lube testing:
For AR's you need the chamber brush. I like the one's that come with their own handle.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/39...t/397733/cj-weapons-chamber-maid-flex-rod-kit-223-remington-ar-15-8-x-32-thread
I think most problems with AR's come from not using a chamber brush.
Lack of proper lube and cleaning.
Then Mags and ammo.
I've found it takes about 200 rounds before an AR will give it's best groups.
If you don't get very good groups try some different kinds of ammo.
1/9 twist try 55 to 68 grain
1/7 or 1/8 twist try 62 to 77 grain
Otis pull through cleaning kits are excellent. Use the small wire with 22 patches and you will not get one stuck.
I clean and relube every 300 rds or so.
Save this one:
http://8reg.txsg.state.tx.us/Manuals8reg/FM3_22x9_Rifle_Marksmanship_Chan_4.9412913.pdf
You don't need to clean them to death, be reasonable.
Hope this helps.