Just a bookmark, I am interested in this

 

The trigger pins appear "shiny" are they stainless ? If so I'd get another set as I have seen nothing but issues with them... they had hardness issues etc.... is the barrel / chamber chrome lined ? Do you know who made the barrel ?

 

The trigger pins appear "shiny" are they stainless ? If so I'd get another set as I have seen nothing but issues with them... they had hardness issues etc.... is the barrel / chamber chrome lined ? Do you know who made the barrel ?

I was told it was not chrome lined and I didn't expect it to be at that price. It has no visible markings.

The finish on the barrel is somewhat strange to me though. It's uniform, but is a fine abrasive gray that starts to appear powdery if dry. If you rub it with your hands or a cloth when dry it will get powdery which seems like its tiny bits of skin or cloth. Maybe I'm just not used to parkerizing of this type.

 

I hadn't actually heard anything bad about the MMC rifles as a whole. I did buy a parts kit from them that was out of spec. and had stainless pins. I ended up having to replace it, b/c no matter what I did the diconnect wouldn't seat right.

Even if you have to replace the lower parts, you can't beat that AR deal. Let us know how it shoots!

 

Is this from Sanford? I have a girl that works QC sitting next to me here at my office and she's never heard of this.

EDIT:

She looked it up, they are made at the other factory there in Sanford it seems.

 

They didn't replace it, I did. And to be fair, I never asked them to.

http://carolinashootersforum.com/showthread.php?t=88738

 

Look at the Bolt Carrier and check to see if the gas key is properly staked on, this will tell you alot about thier knowledge and attention to detail, If its not staked or staked improperly, I'd get that fixed asap and really go over the rest of the rifle to see any other areas they may have skimped on or glossed over

 

The markings for the barrel are under the handguards around the handguards retainer, and as far as i know everything but the furniture and upper reciever is made on site. I have seen some small teething issues in the originals, but there customer service and repair policy is above and beyond most companies i have dealt with. Just to mention that they are producing lowers and parts kits and barrels for brownells and r-guns from az

 

I don't know about complete firearms but I have two MMC lowers that I'm gonna be putting together as soon as the parts kits arrive. The machining and finish looked good on the lowers and the price was right. The pieces i've already fitted have been ok with the exception of the receiver extension(buffer tube)..it was extremely tight to the point I had to run a tap in it to get it to thread in. It would thread in a RockRiver lower with no problems. I may add more once the LPKs arrive.YMMV

 

Lube it up and go put 1k rounds through over the weekend and let us know how it does.

 

Lube it up and go put 1k rounds through over the weekend and let us know how it does.

Care to chip in for some of that ammo? ;-)

 

Fired 10 rounds today at the homestead. 2nd round had a FTE. It extracted but didn't eject, the case mouth was dinged pretty good. No failures after that. Gun was well lubed but it was the end of a Federal bulk pack and out of that box I've had at least 4 bad rounds some of them with major flaws in the case that I noticed when loading mags but with a different gun so I'm blaming the ammo until I know different.

Just wanted to sight it in. I shot at 25yds because I hear that will also put me in the ballpark at 200. 1st shot was only about .7" off to the right dead level. Not bad for just mounting a brand new scope. So anyone know the particulars of the 25/200 rule? I'm assuming it's for 55gr but what barrel length (velocity) and what did they use for scope height, 1"?

 

Lots of variables, but a 50yd zero will put you close around 200yds.

 

Lots of variables, but a 50yd zero will put you close around 200yds.

Thanks I thought it was 25 yds but you are correct! Found this at Calguns.net:

50/200 yard zero -- ballistics
M4 Carbine (14.5 " BBL) M855 5.56mm ball, 2910 fps muzzle velocity
Range (yards) 50 yard zero path (inches)
0 -2.6
25 -1.16
50 0.0
75 +0.87
100 +1.43
125 +1.65
150 +1.52
175 +1.00
200 +0.08
225 -1.29
250 -3.14
275 -5.5
300 -8.41

 

Shot 100 rounds today. Had 6 to 8 FTEs randomly spaced. Now I'm trying to decide if I should try and figure out what's going wrong myself or give it back to MMC to make it right. Also the bolt will not lock back even when manually cycled on an empty mag.

The FTEs are all the same, failures to eject so the empty is still on the bolt face when the bolt strips a new round causing a double feed. When I cycle rounds through the action manually the rounds eject as soon as they clear the ejection port. Maybe the ejector spring is not strong enough?

Very disappointed obviously. Any suggestions about the FTEs? I'm afraid the bolt not locking back is an even bigger issue like an out of spec lower or something. Tried multiple mags with the same result.

 

Try swapping out the spring/buffer combo with a shorter spring?

 

Flashpoint,
Can you post pic's of the bolt carrier? Top side and under side?

 

Is there a way you can swap out the BCG, Spring, Buffer, etc with someone else or do you have extras of these sitting around? This may help you start eliminating bad variables.

 

Unfortunately I don't have any spare AR parts or another AR, although I have friends that do so I might see what I can do in that regard. I don't think the failure to lock back is a buffer issue though because it won't lock back even when I pull the charging handle all the way to the rear manually. I'll post a pic of the BCG tonight.

I forgot to mention earlier that the one positive is it's pretty darn accurate. I was hitting metal Christmas tree targets at 200yds fairly consistently with the chinese FACOG. They were either 2" or 2.5" I think.

 

I was going to say check to see if the gas key is staked properly, as the last m4 i bought started exhibiting the same problerms- finally identified as an staking issue...

should look something like this:

 

Take it to the next Gun Show and sell it at a loss if you have to. Then buy a AR from a company known for quality workmanship. I personally would never have bought it based on the known problems this company has had(MMC,ROGGIO)............ Anyway,your spring loaded ejector pin might be getting stuck on the split pin that retains it in the bolt causing a failer to eject.Had this problem on a factory Bushmaster. The split on the pin was rubbinng on the ejector as it moved back and forth and created a burr at the split that hung up the ejector pin.Hammered out the old split pin and installed a new one with the split facing 180 degree away from the ejector pin, never had a single FTE after that.

 

The bolt not locking back is the same problem the MMC lower I just assembled had...the bolt catch would not pivot up enough to catch the bolt...I removed it and filed a little off the backside at the lower portion...seems like the depth of the recess below the roll pin is not deep enough to let it pivot up high enough to catch the bolt...before filing it down I installed same said bolt catch in a different brand lower and it worked...had to be machining on MMC receiver.
I have one more MMC lower that'll I'm gonna build one day but i'm not gonna ever get another. Too many other better made receivers out there for close to the same money.

 

Sell it and buy something from a know maker as someone else has said.
Having that many problems in such a short amount of time to me does not show a problem with the ammo but a problem with the gun in some shape or form.

 

Also,what kind of goofy-ass stock is that? Looks like a mix of Old Fiberlite and M4. Judging by the latch, the locking pin is either too long and the latch would rattle around, or you dont have it collasped all the way. Is that a muzzle cover over the FH?

 

Also,what kind of goofy-ass stock is that? Looks like a mix of Old Fiberlite and M4. Judging by the latch, the locking pin is either too long and the latch would rattle around, or you dont have it collasped all the way. Is that a muzzle cover over the FH?

The "muzzle cover" is probably a Levang linear compensator based on his first post.