Unless you have a polygonal barrel, then properly cast lead bullets are absolutely fine. And some will argue that even with those barrels they are fine.

The only differences are:

Load to the proper specs which is lighter than FMJ

Check and clean your barrel every couple hundred rounds.

If you are worried about their health effects, then don't. Just wash you hands after handling and you are fine. Many FMJ rounds actually have exposed lead tails so you get >some< lead contact with particles after firing.

Just don't chew on one while you load them.

Now, go to Lucky13 and order some.

 

All I shoot is lead

 

The worst part about shooting lead is you might want to start casting your own. Only down side I can think of!

 

i shoot lead. And only lead save for a few here and there plated. I shoot them thru glock barrels and all. A properly sized lead bullet and not pushing them faster than about 1200 fps will leave the barrel no more fouled up than plated or jacketed.

I have yet to have any body parts turn plaid and fall off. I dont chew on the loose lead laying around on the bench either.

I grew up in a house with lead paint. Played in play ground more than likely painted with lead paint. My parents did a decent job of teaching me not to chew on the window sills...

so yeah as Booger said, Call up Luycky13 a get some lead coming.

 

Pros - cheap, accurate. Cons - only if you do not clean the weapon after each range session, which I do anyway. Great in cowboy guns -nice and smokey!!

 

All I shoot is lead in my handguns. XDm 40, SR1911, S&W 686+. I also shoot lead in my .357 lever gun.

Little smokey but they shoot great. Call up Lucky13 and order a bunch.

 

Cast boolits is all I shoot in my handguns and 45-70. Never had a problem.

 

cons: It's hard to find load data for some calibers, they make your gun dirtier, and I don't like shooting them indoors - too much smoke even with good ventilation.
Pros: you'll save big bags of money if you're used to buying factory ammo or jacketed bullets, plus you can lay down a tactical smoke screen at the next match.

 

If you like to shoot "hot" loads out of a rifle, you could consider cast bullets with gas checks. Then shoot them as fast as you like. I use mostly cast and I'm developing loads for all my rifles that will eliminate the need for me to buy jacketed ammo. The jacketed is more expensive and not always available. Honestly, the cast bullets do better damage in most cases, depends on the weight and bullet configuration! But figuring it all out is part of the reloading fun!!

 

There is always the option of learning to paper patch your cast rifle bullets as well. The paper forms the bullet jacket,the lead never touches the rifles bore an allows you to shoot cast lead bullets at high velocity without the need of a gas check.

Paper Patched 7.62 x 54r

Does the paper go around the base of the bullet? Is the bullet cast undersized to accomidate the paper?
What keeps the paper from shedding / stripping when it hits the lands?

 

I've considered paper patch, especially for my Sharps, but I don't know how to do it. I've watched a few video's, but I really think they assume you have done something like this before. I don't want to put black powder into my Sharps due to fouling and the overall mess. But, the paperpatch seems to eliminate all that....but as I said, I don't have any practical experience with it. And what's with the black powder being so much more expensive per pound than smokeless?? Might as well stick with my IMR-4198 or reloader 7!

 

A properly sized lead bullet and not pushing them faster than about 1200 fps will leave the barrel no more fouled up than plated or jacketed.

I push my own cast 405-grain bullets to 1600+ fps in my .45-70 Sharps carbine. There's no lead fouling beyond a light wash, and cleanup is faster and easier than with jacketed bullets.

They're gas checked. It adds some to the expense, but it's quick and simple and a lot faster than patching. I've done both. I still patch occasionally...mainly for the romantic aspect.

One trick I learned with paper patching was to lay the bullets on a flat surface and roll them under a mill file to kick up a textured surface that grips the paper. The operation goes a little faster and it doesn't affect the bullet's accuracy. Mind the direction of the file marks so that the paper is wrapping against the grain in the direction that it needs to be wrapped.

What keeps the paper from shedding / stripping when it hits the lands?

I've recovered patched bullets from dirt berms with most of the paper intact. Wrap it correctly, and it won't shed.

 

I shoot cast lead for handgun probably 95% of the time. I cast my own from scrap wheel weights. I cast for 9MM, 40S&W, and 45. Just ordered a new set of molds to begin casting for my 357 SIG. Follow proper procedures, save $$$, and shoot more.

 

I'm a recent convert to lead having reloaded plated bullets in the past when actively shooting USPSA matches. I've found them easy to work with and you can create some very, very light loads for plinking at the range with which makes Mrs Jones happy. I loaded 400 148g wadcutters and brought back 1500 158g round nose flat point lead bullets from NC this past weekend. I bought 'em at Lucky 13. Great guys. I'll continue to buy from them.

 

Thank you all for the very useful info. Guess I have some ordering to do.

 

Thank you all for the very useful info. Guess I have some ordering to do.

Here is what I did a year or so ago when I decided to cast my own.

#1. Did a lot of reading and inquiring about the proper procedure of casting my own.
#2. Located several sources of cheap and/or free scrap lead & wheel weights.
#3. Purchased a propane burner, cast iron pot, and other items needed to work the melted lead.
#4. Purchased leather apron, welders gloves, face shield.
#5. Purchased a melting furnace, ingot molds, bullet molds, thermometers, etc.
#6. Asked a lot more questions!

I've probably cast 5 or 6K bullets by now, and all has been well.

Have fun...

 

J words are too expensive to shoot, lead is the right price [Pistol]

 

The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!

 

Switched almost exclusively from jacketed to lead after getting some Lucky 13's in 9mm and 45 ACP. Saves a ton of money for me and helps to support friends and neighbors in my local community. All my guns (Sigs, Springfields, Smith & Wessons are all happy.

 

Shooting with lead means you get to shoot more. It's simple...lead us much cheaper. And lead is much better for your barrel than jacketed or plated. Lead is much softer than those two and will not wear your barrel out like jacketed does. Trust Lucky13. They will do ya right.

 

thanks for the compliments guys!

we appreciate it!!!!

Don

 

I shoot almost all lead. I've used a ton of powders with them too and done a lot of experimenting. My favorite powders for cast lead are American Select and Clays. That's for .45 and .40. Those two powders are clean with lead and produce less smoke. Also are dead accurate. The best groups I've ever shot with a 1911 were with starting charges of American Select and Clays. They were 5 shot 1.8" groups at 25 yards, shot freehand.

That was with Lucky 13 230 grain lead round nose bullets.

 

I need to get up to lucky13 and stock back up. I tried one other brand of lead bullets but they seem to lead my barrel despite being the same diameter as the luck13. I will never leave you again Lucky13.

 

I loaded a couple hundred L13 9mm yesterday. Very accurate in my Tanfoglio Witness.


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