Money spent on quality rings and bases as well as good optics is money well-spent in my mind. The thing is, at first, whatever you get will be the greatest thing since the wheel. Then, as you progress, you will "out-grow" the "adequate" stuff and start looking to upgrade. Here, the age-old saying "buy once; cry once" is absolutely apropo. While a cheap base and cheap rings will run you $50 or so, good stuff - no, EXCEPTIONAL stuff can be had for $150 or so if you look on the 'net for used. Do you need Badger Max-50 rings and a Badger 20 MOA rail? Perhaps not. But you can always get more of your $$ back out of these than you can the cheap stuff should you ever need/want to sell 'em. So why get the good stuff you ask? Granted, in your post you said you won't be shooting that far. I proffer the caveat "for now" be appended. Believe me, you will shoot farther. It's a disease. (Ask me how I know)
But aside from that, even at closer ranges of 100-200 yards, there is little more frustrating than spending time and money sighting in your new rifle/scope package one day, and going back a week later only to find the scope has been "bumped" or otherwise knocked out of alignment - something that just doesn't often happen with the better mounting systems. Remember, an extremely slight movement of the optic at the rifle is magnified the farther downrange the bullet travels. So short answer for why to buy the better stuff (yeah, I know, too late for the short answer) is stability and reliability/repeatability. (Sound sort of like the def. of accuracy and/or precision?)
As for the optics, again, buy once, cry once. Do you need a $2000-$3000 Premier/Schmit and Bender/US Optics? Perhaps not. There are some great choices out there under $500. The super sniper (don't let the goofy name put you off, it's really, really great optics - I've had several of them and was NEVER disappointed). Vortex and Burris. Shephard and Millet scopes are well within your price range and all get really good reviews. Again, though, don't cost yourself money in the long run. Save a little now and buy better than you "think" you need and it will save you a TON later when you realize you want (if not need) to "upgrade". What's that? Why buy better? you ask.... Again, better optics mean repeatability, stability, and durability. Clarity of glass, repeatability/reliability of the adjustments and several other factors will eventually convince you you need to upgrade from the cheaper Wal-Mart specials. If you can't "see" it, you likely can't hit it. And at distance, if you can't dial it (or hold it over) with some measure of reliability/repeatability, your experience will be left wanting.
All that said, am I suggesting you dump your kids' college find into optics and a good mounting system? Damned right! You only live once, let the little freeloader get a job and work his/her way through college like I did!
Seriously, no. You don't have to break the bank on these things. That's not at all what I am suggesting. All I'm trying to say is don't skimp out on the optics and mounts just because you don't need good stuff "now". Don't get hung up on huge magnification! I can't say that enough. Optical quality is FAR more important than straight-up power. Always remember, bad glass becomes piss poor glass as magnification goes up. Also, mirage often renders higher powers useless even on quality optics. Cheap, crappy glass - you know, probably wouldn't be able to discern the difference... no, SERIOUSLY, poor optics have been -
in my experience - more susceptible to the effects of mirage even at lower magnifications. Higher powers did little more than accentuate their shortcomings.
If you stay in this hobby/sport long, you will find yourself regretting it when you later realize you DO need/want the better stuff and you have blown $200-$300 on cheaper stuff that no longer serve your purposes. In the long run, it really IS cheaper to buy the better stuff from the get-go. Moral of the story, buy the best glass you can justify, whether you think you need it or not.
For a place to start, Burris makes some really decent rings at mid-range prices. Here's the thing: choose your rings AFTER you select your optic. Some tubes are 1" in diameter, other 30mm-35mm. The rings must, must, MUST match the scope tube. Furthermore, the height of the rings you need will depend upon the size of the bell (objective end) among other things. Get only as high as absolutely necessary for your scope to clear your rifle. The closer your scope is to your rifle bore center-line, the better.
For a picatinny rail, Badger Ordnance is VERY hard to beat and can be had in 20 MOA used for a C-note. (20 MOA canted bases give your scope more effective range, thereby reducing the amount of travel your optic must have to reach a longer distance. If you know you'll NEVER shoot beyond a few hundred yards you won't need it, but it rarely hurts to have it.
Glass seems to be so subjective, I am loathe to even address it. However, I will offer some observations/expensive lessons I have personal experience with. Cheap scopes break. Cheap scopes break. Cheap scopes break. You know, the damned things are just plain fragile! They break! I loved my 4 Simmons scopes. They looked clear as Christmas, and I hit damned near everything I shot at with them. Did I mention the fact that they break, and that I had 4 of them? Then, along came this prick at the range one day with this wallet-draining, account zapping, wife piss-offering ,scurge that is Nightforce! My God! I had no idea targets really looked like that! And you can actually drive nails with the damned things without hurting them! No, REALLY! Of course the kids aren't going to college, the cat ain't eating this week, and I can NEVER have another beer, but I MUST possess this. Well, you get the idea....
I have used the scope you mention and found it to be a good scope at a good price. Nikon also makes some pretty decent glass in that price range. Also, as with the rings and base, don't limit yourself to buying new. Scour the gun forums classifieds. Great glass can be had second-hand often for little more than mediocre glass bought new. But the absolute best advice I can offer up is look through as many different makes and models as you possibly can before you settle on anything. Look though the cheaper stuff. Look through things in your price range and just a tick above that. Hell, if you can, look through some one of those $2K-$3K scopes just for grins and giggles. Know what's out there, then decide what you need/want. It honestly will save you money in the long run - even if it costs you a few hundred more now.
I'm sure there will be plenty of folks come along soon and tell you how full of crap I am, and they may well be right. When that happens, all I ask if that you remember what you paid for this little bit of "opinion" I have left you with, and realize that you may have gotten exactly what you paid for. On the other hand, when the day comes, and I assure you it will, that you realize how valuable this info was to you.....
I ACCEPT PAYPAL!;joint
