Don't sell it. Stevens 311s in 12ga only go for 2-300 dollars, but the .410s go for 6-800.

I'd hold on to it. Sure, it's a utility gun and not a classic, but it's not often you can have a utility gun that is worth 600-800 bucks.

 

thats nice to know... i was offered 700 and thats wat got me interested in finding out more... this lil beauty might have to stay in the safe for a lil while... but ten again, im really wantin a .204...

 

Don't sell it. Stevens 311s in 12ga only go for 2-300 dollars, but the .410s go for 6-800.

I'd hold on to it. Sure, it's a utility gun and not a classic, but it's not often you can have a utility gun that is worth 600-800 bucks.

And a good little utility gun it is, too. I had a 311A that I killed a boxcar load of small game with, and about half again as many quail and doves. I think I gave 85 dollars for it NIB.

It patterned well with all shot sizes except #4 and it shot where it looked with both barrels.
It even shot 3 inches high and converged at 50 yards with slugs. I couldn't have asked for more in a 2-shoot scattergun at any price. I've since had a half-dozen...sadly no longer around...in 12...16...and 20 gauge, and the performance was excellent with all. Never had a .410 but I'd seek one out if I was still into upland hunting.

My personal favorite was the little 20 gauge with modified and IC chokes. That was a bird killin' piece of plunder and I've regretted giving it to my nephew since the day it went home with him.

 

Nice Stevens 311. It is very similar to the Fox model B.

 

thanks yall, that answered alot of questions.... is there any way of telling the year?

 

This may help, may not....

http://www.wisnersinc.com/additional_info/stevens_date_code.htm

http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=107&t=176056

This is from the shotgun world link

"If it has a serial # the best I can do is 1968 or later.
Since the pictures are not back yet, I will explain to the best of my ability.
The Savage/Stevens date code is a very small oval, usually on the underside of the receiver on doubles. Inside that oval is a very small number and letter. The letter is the year of manufacture. A=1949, B=1950 etc. "O" and "Q" were not used because of similarity to a zero."

"All the other marks you see are there to make sure pieces that may have been separated inside the factory find each other again.
So a large "A" by itself inside a circle in not the date code. If the serial # starts with an "A" that is not the date code."

 

thank you